by Clare Tooley MW

Changing Places

Last night I dreamt I went to Moulon again. Recent times have created asynchronous existence, intermittent periods of grace along a continuum of uncertainty. In wine terms, the experience has...

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by Tom Hewson

The Mysteries of the Mousse

Why is it that some sparkling wines glide like fluffy meringues whilst others seem to fizz and froth like an angry jacuzzi? The route to the finest bubbles is one...

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by Peter Pharos

In Praise Of Assyrtiko

Growing up in Greece means you get used to following two parallel tracks, the national and the international. There is the local music scene, and the global music scene; the...

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by Margaret Rand

Wines That Sing To Themselves

The trouble with taking human emotions and dumping them on to unsuspecting bottles is that they bring their connotations with them. A wine can be cheerful, or dour; that’s pretty...

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by Christy Canterbury MW

Facing The Fires

During Napa’s intense “fire season” last year, I wondered what locals have been doing about this menace since 2017. Napa is a moneyed wine region. Surely it has the funds...

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by Tim Atkin

How Democratic Is Rioja?

Imagine being a voter in Liverpool Walton or South Holland and the Deepings. In the first of these constituencies, the Labour Party received 86% of the ballot in the last...

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by Luca Turin

Perfume And Wine

I fell in love with both perfume and Sauternes at roughly the same time, when I moved to the Côte d’Azur for work in 1982. As it happens, neither had...

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by Donald Edwards

The Whisper Of Umami

I chip into the hard yellow wax over the cork and it shatters; a frustrating rain over my station. Domaine Raveneau’s 2008 Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons is initially tight, mineral...

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by Henry Jeffreys

Damned Good

Before I knew anything about Roger Scruton, who died last year, I knew him from his wine column in the New Statesman, which ran from 2001 to 2009. In what...

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