Regarding Andy Neather’s recent article on low and no alcohol wines, I would like to offer a few reflections: far from polemics, far from ideologies, far from rigid viewpoints. Simply the thoughts of a wine producer who, while remaining faithful to “wine,” finds himself, like many others, in the midst of a shift in the way wine is consumed, with all the related consequences, and who in some way is trying to carry on a generational business.

What clearly emerges in this NoLo discussion is that those who always raise their voices are, allow me to say, the “old guards” (not in terms of age) of the wine world. On the other side, we find the puritans: those who, sometimes with almost threatening slogans, portray wine as a demon, a poison, by which humanity itself would be at risk.

In this context, I consider myself moderate. I remain deeply attached to the world of wine. I love wine and will love it forever. At the same time, I am a person attentive to change and, not least, aware of my economic responsibility.

In all these years of debate about NoLo, I have almost never heard a voice, not even a timid whisper, from those who, for whatever reason, drink less wine, have stopped drinking it, or have never consumed it. Yet, this is precisely where attention should be focused on.

We can continue to ignore and to downplay statistics and sales analyses, but wine consumption is declining.

In these lines I would like to set aside the often heard comments such as “wine is old and needs to be rejuvenated”, “wine must change its language to appeal to young people” and similar statements, and instead reflect on that one (lonely) point which, at the moment, is the only positive sign regarding wine consumption and its survival.

According to statistics, this salvation is often identified in so-called “cult” wines, which, apparently, the high-end segment manages to sustain miraculously despite the overall decline in consumption. However, nowadays, cult wines are rare, and they do not come into existence overnight: they often are wines that tell a deep and authentic story tied to their territory. Just think of that small patch of vineyard in Burgundy, enclosed by a wall and with a cross in front of it. There you find time, layering, memory, and a great deal of storytelling.

Many producers, many territories, and let us not forget the institutions that decide their fate, are not ready for this level of awareness. Often they do not even truly know what cult wines are and how they are being “created”. Iconic wines are not born with a “hand-to-mouth” mentality. What is needed is long-term vision, foresight, and the ability to breathe over the long run. Qualities that, unfortunately, many lack of. What role do territorial institutions play in this context? Those who should have the obligation to chart a course aimed at future generations?

Does dealcoholised wine represent the future? I do not know. Perhaps. It is certainly a valid alternative. As perhaps grape juices are as well. Both are a partial response to declining consumption and, perhaps, also a tool to stem the grubbing up of vineyards caused precisely by falling sales.

NoLo: a lot of noise, little volume, too much media attention? Are NoLo products just a passing phenomenon?

However, if history were to follow a path similar to what has already been seen in the world of beer, then yes, it would be necessary to redefine many aspects in the wine sector as well. Not today, not tomorrow. Better yesterday.

Perhaps, in order not to waste time, we should stop fighting ideological battles and get to work. Even we, the “old ones”. The direction? It does not matter, as long as it leads to valid and lasting solutions over time for our precious wine sector.

Photo by Alexandre Lallemand on Unsplash