93

2023 Benanti Etna Bianco, Sicily

( £22, 12.5%, The Wine Society )

Etna in north-east Sicily is better known for its reds than whites, but the best examples of the latter, made from the local grape Carricante, can be spectacular, somewhere between a Burgundian Aligoté and a top Soave in style. This is totally unoaked, but draws richness from six months of lees’ ageing. Stony and intense, with notes of lime, fennel and lemon juice, steely, palate-cleansing acidity and a mineral tang. Best drunk with the Mediterranean sun on your face, but it’ll cheer you up in winter too.

BuyDrinking window: 2024-28Similar Wines: £20-25, 90-94, Italy, White, Carricante
Leave a Reply