by Peter Pharos

Santorini Assyrtiko 2022 Report

It is rather unlucky, if not downright unwise, to start producing a report on a grape variety at a point in time where its prime terroir underperformed. When I compiled my Assyrtiko report last year, a good chunk of the Santorini wines I tried were from 2019, a rather undistinguished vintage. While the yearly variation on the island is not as dramatic as in other places (in a way, simply managing to produce wine on such a bare island makes every vintage feel exceptional), I still felt I was kind of starting on the wrong foot. I pitted all these Assyrtikos, from all over Greece, but also Australia, Italy, and Lebanon, against one another, but I asked Santorini to play with one arm tied behind her back. It was a relief, then, to revisit those producers this year, with many 2020s now available on the international market. You see, while the world was trying to get to terms with the second wave of Coronavirus, Santorini was delivering excellent wines. Every producer I spoke to referred to it in glowing terms, both in quantity and quality, with one, Yiannis Valambous of Vassaltis, calling it the vintage of the decade. On the tasting table, the wines seem to confirm it, and there are few producers whom I’ve found to have performed better in 2019 than in 2020.

Sadly, 2021 came back with a vengeance. Punishing heatwaves and lack of rain in June and July had a major impact on quantity and some on quality. Ioanna Vamvakouri, chief oenologist of Mikra Thira, described the effect of the heat to me as seeing July leaves looking like September’s. Matthaios Argyros, owner of the island’s leading winery, painted a picture of a once-in-a-lifetime event, saying that nobody he spoke to recalled ever seeing a July heatwave such as 2021’s. Estate Argyros created mini-shock waves in that part of the world when it declared it wouldn’t bottle any single-vineyard wines for 2021, channelling everything to the main Santorini instead, in order to uphold that label’s quality standards. While most agree it was a challenging year, others see it a bit better. Aris Tselepos, of the Tselepos/Canava Chryssou partnership, for example, likes the aromatics of the 2021. The most optimistic by far is Dimitris Bozonis, Sales Manager at Karamolegos Winery. For him, this is the vintage where the talent of the winemaker will shine through, and good winemakers and good parcels will produce great wines.

A particularly interesting, and positive, thing to see was the change in sentiment with regard to the effects Covid had on producers. When I spoke to many of the same people last year, with the pandemic appearing never-ending, there was a general feeling of despondency about the impact on the wine market. This year, spirits were higher. Naturally, the pandemic didn’t impact everyone the same and those with lower volumes and an export focus were not as hit as those with a greater reliance on the domestic fine dining market, where Santorini usually shines. (Bozonis of Karamolegos was again the chief optimist here describing 2021 as “the best in [the winery’s] history” both in business and quality terms.) Yet, even amongst the latter group, there are many that see a silver lining. It has long been a lament amongst Greek wine cognoscenti that people were drinking top Santorini Assyrtiko on release, when it needs at least 2-3 years to show its best, and can often keep improving for at least few years more. Producers hope that the forced pause of the pandemic, and the unusual availability of Assyrtiko with a bit of age on the market, has demonstrated the variety’s ageing potential to a wider audience.

Like everyone else, however, the Santorini wine industry feels there has hardly been any chance to catch a breath. The pandemic lull has been followed by the tandem crises of energy prices and supply chains, pushing costs up and material availability down, requiring a much better handling of logistics. The word on everybody’s lips is resilience. From the outside, it is easy to forget that, while the world has felt like it has been in non-stop crisis since 2020, Greece has been feeling like that since 2010. People and businesses that have survived, let alone thrived, through all this must be doing something right.

And of course, Santorini’s best days are still ahead of it. Assyrtiko might already give outstanding wines, but its potential feels like it has only started being scratched, and its various facets are still to be discovered outside of Greece. This year, for example, I’ve also covered Vinsanto (not to be confused with Tuscany’s Vin Santo and Trentino’s Vino Santo), one of the world’s greatest, and most underappreciated, sweet wines. More producers are about to join the ranks, with Vassaltis and Tselepos both having something in the works. The most exciting news, however, comes from Argyros. Their cellar portfolio of Vinsanto goes back to 1947, and Matthaios has hinted they might be looking to bottle some vintages in the near future. If so, the first undisputed unicorn of Greek wine will have certainly arrived.

In the meantime, we can enjoy everything that Assyrtiko (or as I would have it, Asyrtiko – if you know, you know) already has to offer. And there is a lot.

DISTINCTIONS

Producer of the Year – Estate Argyros
Santorini Assyrtiko of the Year – Argyros Evdemon 2018
Vinsanto of the Year – Argyros Vinsanto Late Release 2001
Discovery of the Year – Gaia Clay Assyrtiko Orange 2017
Best Value for Money of the Year – The Wine Society Exhibition Assyrtiko 2020

TASTING NOTES


DRY WHITE

96
points

Argyros Evdemon 2018
PDO Santorini 14%

Particularly saline nose, but with class and electrifying energy. Similarly vivid on the palate, delivering waves of flavour, but maintaining freshness and a remarkable lightness, almost etherealness, throughout. The trademark salt and rock of Santorini is loudly present, as is intense lemon, which dominates the aftertaste. This is a wine of exceptional finesse, which simultaneously delivers pure energy.

(Drink 2022-2028)

Santorini Assyrtiko of the Year


95
points

Pure Santorini 2018
PDO Santorini 14%

This is a side project of Estate Argyros. Crystalline, linear nose of high fidelity and intense energy, with hints of lemon and an echo of rosemary. On the palate it appears fuller and more robust, with a particularly interesting texture. It is almost like experiencing a tide, the liquid wanting to coat the tongue, then its coruscating acidity pulling it away. It is a wine of great beauty, and it feels like it is only starting to show its potential. It will be a thrilling drink to revisit a few years down the line.

(Drink 2024-2030 where it will be 95-96 pts).


95
points

Anhydrous Icon 2020
PDO Santorini 14%

A wine that demonstrates nobility and finesse from the start, with aromas of ripe lemon and lime, and just a touch of honey. Remarkable balance on the palate. The Assyrtiko character is clear, with intense salinity and lemon, but it is the texture that is the winning element, combining smoothness and intensity, like being caressed by an electrified silk handkerchief. This is a wine of both high quality and particular perspective.

(Drink 2022-2025).


94
points

Tselepos Laoudia 2020
PDO Santorini 14%

Noble on the nose, with round aromas of clementine and kumquat, humming with quiet power. Similarly blue-blooded on the palate. The raw Santorini power is under harness; the texture luxurious; the flavour profile juicier and fruitier than most. The aftertaste is impressive – a 14% wine that fades away like there was barely any alcohol in it at all. Laoudia has been slowly making its own mark in the Santorini landscape, and this is the most successful vintage yet.

(Drink 2022-2025)


94
points

Vassaltis Barrel Aged 2020
PDO Santorini 14%

Very rich, thick and broad nose with dominant oak and round notes of fig and candied lemon. Substantially more balanced texture: starts similarly rich and broad, almost viscous on the tongue, but then the acidity makes its presence felt and brings with it the lemon and lime notes one associates with the variety. The Barrel Aged Vassaltis can be a divisive wine: it intentionally trades typicity for a full texture and maximum impact. The bet can be a risky one. In 2020 instead, it pays off handsomely.

(Drinks 2022-2025)


94
points

Argyros Monsignori 2019
14.5%

Elegant nose, with an understated subtlety that slowly reveals considerable depth. Freshly-cut grass and white flowers are underscored by a lemon freshness. Much more characteristic of the variety on the palate, with a linear, intense acidity, all lemon, lime, and salt, balanced out with a savoury element that holds the whole together. A wine of elegance and poise that will continue developing for at least 3-4 years more.

(Drink 2023-2027 where it will be 95 pts)


94
points

Karamolegos Pyritis 2019
PDO Santorini 14%

Rich, very concentrated nose, which, however, still demonstrates the classic Santorini character of lemon and salt, and promises bracing acidity. The same combo appears on the palate: remarkable richness and concentration of flavour, but tempered by an electrifying acidity. There is also a green, herbal element, which is muted, but shows a bit more in the aftertaste – perhaps the only dissonant note in a Cycladic symphony.

(Drink 2022-24)


94
points

Argyros Santorini 2020
PDO Santorini 14.5%

Trademark Santorini on the nose, with lemon, lime, and a touch a salt. Fresh, but perhaps a bit more plump compared to other vintages. Consistent on the palate, with generous citrus fruit, but a relatively measured acidity for the standards of the variety. One of the most approachable, almost generous, iterations of this classic label in a while.

(Drink 2022-2024)


94
points

Mikra Thira Santorini 2020
PDO Santorini 13.5%

Clean, linear, and with poise on the nose, with the ripe lemon notes supplemented by a herbal character. Very interesting on the palate, with a soft, almost honeyed texture (for Assyrtiko standards at least), that caresses the tongue. The varietal acidity has been house trained: it is present, but wearing expensive clothes. Evaporates with an almost self-contradictory combination of energy and gentleness on the aftertaste. A Santorini of quality that brings a distinct point of view.

(Drink 2022-2024)


93
points

Karamolegos Santorini 2020
PDO Santorini 14%

Trademark Santorini on the nose, with salt, lemon, raw power, and a suggestion (or threat?) of intense acidity. More gentle on the palate, with a texture that starts smooth – until the varietal character takes over and the intensity reveals itself in all its glory. An archetypal Assyrtiko, that displays paradigmatic balance between power and finesse.

(Drink 2022-2024)


93
points

Hatzidakis Skitali 2019
PDO Santorini 14.5%

Rich and deep aromas of clementine and bergamot, in an otherwise electrifying nose with intense energy. On the palate it achieves something that is practically a trademark of the winery: it is thick and concentrated, yet intensely citrusy, elegant, and very easy drinking. There is just a tad of lemon pith on the aftertaste, but it is an excellent wine on the whole.

(Drink 2022-25)


93
points

Vassaltis Gramina 2020
PDO Santorini 15%

Rich, layered, and luscious nose with peach and tropical fruits, balanced out by a hint of lime and the promise of a linear, lighter texture. Similar on the mouth: very rich and atypically sweet for a dry Assyrtiko, with intense flavours of peach, mango, and melon. There is only a touch of the varietal freshness in there, but clearly overwhelmed by the sweeter notes. This is an opinionated wine: it achieves what it sets out to do very well, but breaks violently with tradition.

(Drink 2022-2023)


93
points

Vassaltis Santorini 2020
PDO Santorini 14%

Rich, concentrated nose, with a distinctly green character, reminiscent of high quality Sauvignon Blanc, with only a touch of salt in the background suggesting the Cyclades. Assyrtiko reveals itself in all its glory on the palate, however, with lemon notes becoming more prominent. Vassaltis have built a house style based on broad, full-tasting wines, that favour amplitude over frequency. The 2020 vintage suits the style well, and it is one of their best yet.

(Drink 2022-2025)


92
points

Santo Wines Grande Reserve 2018
PDO Santorini 14.5%

Rich and dense with intense oak notes and generous fruit (quince, lemon), and a herbal hint, vaguely reminiscent of lemongrass. Similarly generous on the palate and, though it risks being a bit too rich, there is a very intense acidity that never lets it fall over. This is always a Sybarite take on Santorini, and 2018 has been a particular success for it.

(Drink 2022-2026)


92
points

Mikra Thira Terrasea 2020
PDO Santorini 13%

Very particular, atypical nose: gentle, almost sweet, with a clementine character. Smooth, viscous, and mellow on the palate, with an understated citrus character that picks up slowly and is, unusually, more pronounced on the aftertaste. Terrasea is slowly creating space for itself in the Theraic landscape: an almost genteel take on Assyrtiko, which will be interesting to follow.

(Drink 2022-2023)


92
points

Gaia Thalassitis 2020
PDO Santorini 13%

Fragrant, almost delicate nose for Assyrtiko standards with textbook lemon and lime and a promise of acidity. This is borne true on the palate, where it shows sharp and crisp, yet delivered with a crystalline texture, that endows the whole with finesse. The aftertaste finishes somewhat green, with just a hint of bitterness. This label consistently presents one of the more elegant, yet very classic, versions of Assyrtiko and the Santorini terroir.

(Drink 2022-2024)


92
points

Karamolegos 34 2020
PDO Santorini 14%

Concentrated and warm on the nose, with the prominent lemon notes supported by clementine and bergamot. Starts similarly warm on the palate, but then the Assyrtiko character takes over, and the lemony aspect becomes dominant, giving verve. The development of this will be interesting – might continue to develop to elegance and class, or it might fall flat. Right now, to me at least, it is a conundrum.

(Drink 2022-?)


92
points

Sigalas Santorini 2021
PDO Santorini 14.5%

Starts deep and heavy but over time displays a character of lemon peel and lemon leaves that, together with the pronounced alcohol, are almost suggestive of fine limoncello. On the palate it is a slow-fused affair. Starts heavy and concentrated but develops with salt and lemon flavours and a vague sweetness. The aftertaste is very long, though again the alcohol is pronounced.

(Drink 2022-25)


92
points

The Wine Society Exhibition Assyrtiko 2020
PDO Santorini 13.5%

This is made by Artemis Karamolegos Winery. Immediately recognisable as classic Assyrtiko with forward salinity and aromas of lemon and lime. On the palate it has the characteristic combination of intensity and acidity, but also a clarity in definition, suggesting a much pricier wine. Medium to long aftertaste, again very typical, with salinity and lemon. It is really impressive they do it for this price. The Wine Society is no stranger to excellent value for money, but this might be its best priced wine yet.

(Drink 2022-23)

Best Value For Money of the Year


91
points

Gaia Assyrtiko Wild Ferment 2021
PDO Santorini 14%

Rich and round on the nose with notes of white peach and a touch of lime. The palate has beautiful texture, soft, almost luscious, with what, for Assyrtiko standards, is only a touch of acidity. The aftertaste is very pleasant and almost gentle – it is very difficult to believe that this is a white wine with 14% ABV. Overall, this is much more approachable than usual. It lacks the aggressive charm Wild Ferment is typically associated with, but it is an excellent introduction to the variety to those unused to its often shearing acidity.

(Drink 2022-2025)


91
points

Santo Wines Santorini 2020
PDO Santorini 13.5%

Fresh and typical, if restrained, aromas of lemon and salt, with a hint of sweetness. Very pleasant on the palate, delivering a winning combination of intensity and clear citrus fruit, though there is a hint of a herbal character too. Similarly pleasant on the aftertaste, which is long and fresh. An excellent introduction to the variety and the terroir.

(Drink 2022-23)


91
points

Vassaltis Nasitis 2021
PGI Cyclades 14%

Lively, fresh, with ripe summer fruit (peach, nectarine), and a touch of iodine in the background. Consistent aromatics on the palate, again the same summer fruit, very full tasting and juicy. The whole is held together with elegance. The aftertaste has just a hint of bitterness, reminiscent of lemon pith, which works well to balance out the sweetness. This is not an Assyrtiko-driven wine (the flavour profile speaks more of the 50% of Athiri and Aidani of which it consists) but it is very well-made and would make an excellent aperitif.

(Drink 2022-2023)


90
points

Boutari Santorini Assyrtiko 2021
PDO Santorini 13.5%

Tame nose, with lemon, quince, and a herbal echo in the background. Full tasting and concentrated on the palate, with a smooth, pleasant texture. However, there is plenty of lemon-driven acidity as well. The rare case where the 2021 is better than the 2020, as I suspect this will develop more over the next two years.

(Drink 2022-2024, where it will be 91 pts).


90
points

Tselepos Santorini 2020
PDO Santorini 14%

I rarely comment on colour but this is distinctly pale, even for Santorini. Delicate on the nose, with clementine and white flowers. Similarly gentle on the palate, with only a shadow of the acidity and intensity one expects from the island. Very pleasant and well-made nonetheless.

(Drink 2022)


90
points

Gavalas Santorini 2021
PDO Santorini 14%

A white peach-driven bouquet, with camomile and vanilla notes showing through. Though the nose is somewhat subdued, it becomes substantially more interesting on the palate, with the summer fruit flavours balanced out by a citrus-driven character. Unusually, the aftertaste is perhaps the most interesting part: fresh, clean, lemony, and rather long.

(Drink 2022-23)


90
points

Boutari Santorini Assyrtiko 2020
PDO Santorini 13.5%

Smooth, round nose, with a gentle touch of lemon and salt coming through. Milder and restrained compared to most others in this selection. The texture is smooth and the varietal character shows faintly. It is, however, a very pleasant wine – a good choice for those that find more typical Santorini too harsh.

(Drink 2022)


89
points

Anhydrous Santorini 2020
PDO Santorini 13.5%

Very tame nose, without intense flavours. More interesting on the palate. While still restrained, without prominent fruit or intensity, it wins a bit from having an engaging texture: mild and rich, with the acidity making its presence felt later. Finishes almost bitter, surprisingly, and lacks somewhat in balance.

(Drink 2022)



NYKTERI

94
points

Tselepos Nykteri 2020
PDO Santorini 14.5%

Thick, rich, and layered nose, clearly Theraic, with pronounced salinity and notes of candied lemon.
Serious and intellectual on the palate. Full-bodied to the point of lavishness, but balanced by emphatic acidity, with an undertone of lemon and lime flavours which make it immediately appealing. Nykteri is always a tightrope walking exercise, with the sweetness and characteristic texture on the one hand, and the varietal character on the other. Tselepos’s 2020 Nykteri performs this balancing act admirably.

(Drink 2022-23)


94
points

Anhydrous Afoura 2020
PDO Santorini 14%

This could be classified as either dry or Nykteri – it doesn’t bear the latter characterisation on the label, but it’s probably closer in character. The nose starts rich and thick, with candied bergamot coming clear, and lemon and salt making an appearance too. Particularly appealing texture, smooth, viscous, coating the tongue. The flavour profile is similarly attractive, with sweet, round notes initially, which balance out very well by a tamed sharpness reminiscent of candied lemon. Afoura’s best vintage yet.

(Drink 2022-2024)


92
points

Karamolegos Nykteri 2018
PDO Santorini 14%

Noble on the nose, with particular and atypical aromas: fig, bergamot, and candied cedar, with only a suggestion of more citrus notes. Full-bodied and round palate, with reasonable balance between sweetness and intensity. Medium-length aftertaste, with an agrodolce character. A very good effort from a dependable producer.

(Drink 2022-24)



ORANGE

93
points

Gaia Clay Assyrtiko Orange 2017
PDO Santorini 13%

A gorgeous bright amber colour. Very interesting on the nose: it suggests the tannic character orange wines typically demonstrate, but in a balanced, elegant way. There is also juicy fruit, primarily clementine, and a hint of apricot. The palate is very appealing, concentrated, but elegant. The tannins make a strong presence but are beautifully countered by a citrus-flavoured acidity which builds up slowly and takes over completely on the aftertaste. It avoids all the traps orange wines so often fall into, and shows the way for an Assyrtiko-powered version of the style. It is likely to keep evolving for a few years more too.

(Drink 2022-2025)

Discovery of the Year


89
points

Karamolegos Mystirio 2019
PDO Santorini 13.5%

Tame nose, with a hint of white flowers. Substantially more interesting on the palate, with quince flavours, a firm, stiff structure, and very intense tannins. A bit more citrusy on the aftertaste, but the tannins are all-encompassing. This is an interesting experiment to follow, but it has some way to go yet.

(Drink 2022-23)



VINSANTO

95
points

Argyros Vinsanto Late Release 2001
PDO Santorini 13.5%

Hypnotic nose, super-concentrated but featherweight, with aromas of cocoa, coffee, hazelnuts, burnt caramel, and molasses. A marvel on the palate: intensely sweet, like high quality baklava, infused with coffee and treacle, but also with a marmalade undertone with just a hint of balancing bitterness.  Wondrously, it finishes light, with a candied orange flavour.  It’s a rare year when the Argyros Vinsanto Late Release is not the best sweet wine of Greece – and this isn’t that rare year.

(Drink 2022-2036)

Vinsanto of the Year


94
points

Karamolegos Vinsanto 2009
PDO Santorini 11%

A fascinating aromatic profile: it starts concentrated and thick, an avalanche of molasses, caramel, and treacle, but then a lightness and a promise of acidity cut through and make the whole brighter. A parallel joyride happens on the mouth. It starts very sweet and generous, almost Muscat-like, but then pivots to a sharp lemonade-like acidity, which cleanses the palate. It achieves a trick usually expected from top Sauternes and noble Riesling: a feeling of intense sweetness at first, but a lightness and clarity in the end. Particularly easy drinking for a dessert wine.

(Drink 2022-24)


93
points

Argyros Vinsanto First Release 2014
PDO Santorini 13.5%

Rich, concentrated nose that achieves the rare trick of being simultaneously sumptuous but sharp. Generous, thick notes of caramel, molasses, and toasted almond are balanced out by a pointed, almost barbed, undertone of acidity. On the palate it starts similarly abundant and toffee-like, then the tide pulls and it goes away in a cleansing sweep of unripe clementine. While not flirting with the divine, as its sister label often does, this is an exemplary sweet wine.

(Drink 2022 – 2032)


93
points

Santo Wines Vinsanto 2015
PDO Santorini 11.5%

Rich, sumptuous, and remarkably consistent nose with molasses, hazelnuts, caramel, and raisins. On the palate it achieves the Vinsanto magic trick: a rich, thick, and viscous body, again all caramel and hazelnuts and raisins, which, yet, once swallowed, evaporates into thin air, with an aftertaste of a particularly sharp lemon tart. Always one of the most dependable wines on the island, this time in a particularly good year, with lots of time ahead of it.

(Drink 2022-2035)



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