My first encounter with Indian wines left me unimpressed. They had a hint of two-stroke exhaust and DEET on the nose, reminiscent of the smell that hits you when the airplane doors open on arrival in Delhi. Flying back from the same airport, I had no desire to include any bottles in my luggage. But things have changed in the last 25 years. Starting a decade ago with a Cabernet-based blend from Grover (now Grover Zampa) Vineyards, I finally began to taste Indian wines that could hold their own against the rest of the world.
The conventional wisdom is that wine grapes can only be grown successfully between the latitudes of 30° and 50° (N or S), but this is clearly no longer the case. The limits are being pushed by the vibrant winemaking scene in England (Sussex, 51° N) and even Sweden (Södermanland, 59° N), not to mention the very north of Argentina (Jujuy, 24° S). But India is the most extreme exception to the latitude dogma, where wine, and good wine at that, is now being made on a significant scale, even at 13° N.
India has a long history of table-grape production. Based on the experience gained from this sector, wine producers generally harvest, always by hand, in February/March. This is surprising, given that India is in the northern hemisphere, but understandable given its tropical climate. The peak summer months in Indian wine regions are April and May, with the monsoon (totalling 600-1500 mm rainfall) starting in July and stretching into September. The subsequent winter months remain warm enough for grapes to ripen and be ready to harvest early in the year. The February/March harvest has some interesting consequences, since the temperature is rising day by day as the grapes are being picked. This makes the timing of the harvest even more critical than in more traditional wine regions, since the drop in acidity can be precipitous. Nevertheless, with careful timing in the vineyard, Indian wines can display a respectable level of acidity, since vineyards are generally located at higher altitudes, providing cool nights.
Once the grapes are in, pruning takes place once before the monsoon starts…and once again afterwards, in order to prevent a second crop, since, in the absence of a cold, dormant period, the vines try to produce two crops a year. Forgoing the second crop seems to enhance the quality of the harvested grapes. The lack of a winter rest takes its toll on the vines, however, and they need to be replaced every 13-15 years. But there are some blessings in tropical viticulture: frost is not an issue, and non-seasonal rains are very rare.
Wine consumption in India is relatively new and still relatively niche. Wine constitutes less than 1% of all alcoholic beverages consumed, whisky and beer being the usual drinks of choice. Around 99% of Indians have never tasted wine, but India is one of the few places in the world where the wine market is growing and, with a population of nearly 1.5 billion and a burgeoning middle class, there is clearly enormous potential.
Sula Vineyards is the most significant player in India, with around 60-70% (2024) of market share. The company was founded in 1999 by Rajeev Samant, after he recognised the wine-producing potential of the Nashik region of Maharashtra, some 180 km northeast of Mumbai. Samant returned to India from a tech career in California to start Sula and was assisted in the project by American consulting winemaker Kerry Damskey. Sula sources its grapes from around the states of Maharashtra and Karnataka, further to the south, taking advantage of the different terroirs that are most suited to the individual varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon was found to be too herbaceous when grown in the Nashik region, for example, and Sula’s Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are now sourced from the warmer Solapur region. Approximately 5% of the grapes are grown in Sula’s own vineyards.
Sula produces around 20 million bottles per year, 98% of which is sold in India. For this reason, the entry-level wines tend to contain some residual sugar, partly to match the spices of Indian food. Sula has been innovating continuously since its founding, making the first Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Zinfandel and sparkling Shiraz in India, as well as India’s first wine in a can. The range of grape varieties is extensive and also includes Chardonnay, Viognier, Moscatel and Semillon, as well as Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Their top-end Rāsā (from Rajeev Samant) line, produced in quantities of 7-8,000 cases per year, comprises single-varietal Zinfandel, Syrah, and a Cabernet Sauvignon that recently won a gold medal at the Global Masters Awards.
Sula has also blazed a trail for the entire Indian wine industry in terms of wine tourism. This was no easy task, since numerous changes in regulations were necessary to make it possible at all. In 2023, some 375,000 tourists visited Sula’s winery, restaurants, hotels and tasting room in Nashik. This means that, rather astonishingly, it is the most visited wine-tourism location in the world. In the meantime, many other wineries have now sprung up in the region and are now open to visitors.
Recently, Sula has constructed a new winery, Domaine Sula, near Bangalore, in Karnataka, which allows them easier entry into the South-Indian markets, since cross-border duties are a major issue in India. Here there are also substantial vineyards growing Syrah, as well as a tasting room and restaurant. Vines are cultivated on high, Y-shaped trellises and are drip irrigated, using water collected from the roofs of the winery buildings. At Domaine Sula, the emphasis is on sustainable winemaking, with 60% of electricity being generated by solar panels (2.6 MW capacity in total), minimal use of chemicals, as well as other eco-friendly measures such as the use of lightweight glass bottles. Also in the spirit of sustainability, Sula has joined Miguel Torres’ International Wineries for Climate Action and also trains and employs workers from the local communities whenever possible, as well as sourcing virtually all packaging materials locally.
On a recent lecture tour of India, I had the opportunity to visit Domaine Sula and sampled their range. I was genuinely impressed. Their Brut Tropicale — a Charmat-method blush sparkler, based on the unusual combination of Chenin Blanc (70%), Riesling, and Syrah — has refreshing acidity, with notes of apple, mango, apricot, rose petal, and strawberry. Among the reds, the standout for me was their top-end 2022 Rāsā Syrah. This wine contains 5% Viognier, as is traditional in parts of the northern Rhône, and shows the peppery top notes, intense black-fruit flavours, vanilla spice from a year of ageing in French oak, ripe tannins and a long finish.
Sula may dominate the Indian wine scene, but there are some outstanding other players. Fratelli Vineyards, for example, have been impressing with their Sette — a Cabernet Sauvignon/Sangiovese blend that has been dubbed a “Super Indian”. They also produce a white wine from Sangiovese, whose freshness and green-apple notes have led to comparisons with Chablis. Grover Zampa, meanwhile, are still producing top-quality Cabernet blends, as well as their acclaimed, traditional-method sparkler La Reserve Brut (based on Chenin Blanc).
Indian wine has come of age; the country has demonstrated that it can produce premium products. The vast potential of the Indian wine scene may be almost unimaginable to the rest of the world. But it’s very real. Maybe it is time to let go of the latitude 30° – 50° dogma. And, if I may suggest, to put a couple of bottles of Indian wine in your suitcase next time you visit.
Photo by Debashis RC Biswas on Unsplash