Description

Port and Madeira are wines of legend. Two and three centuries ago, they ruled the wine world, establishing themselves at royal courts and today live in a limbo.

Universally loved by wine buffs but rarely imbibed, they are there: great aristocrats of the past watching the world move farther and farther away. Can they remain relevant, and how? As all fortified wine and all wine in general, Port and Madeira are not living a great moment, commercially speaking. Madeira, for example, is selling half the volume it shipped 150 years ago. The curve for Port is flatter, though headed in the same direction. But if anyone does, these regions know something about long cycles. And so they have been showing some resilience, especially Port, which has lost market less drastically than other fortified wines, and of course has a strong insurance policy in the form of Douro dry wines.

The paradox is that Port and Madeira are far more than mere commodities. The two regions boast some of the most incredible wine terroirs in the world, with breathtaking scenery, ancient volcanic soils, terraced vineyards, altitude, old vines, and varietal diversity each contributing unquestionable quality. Both have also developed special winemaking traditions that have translated into unique styles. Apart from helping you navigate today’s crowded market, this Report is also an encouragement to keep these two unparalleled wines going in our lives. After all, a glass of Port or Madeira is one of the pinnacles of our wine civilisation.

Wojciech Bońkowski MW